A lifetime following the sheltered ribbons of trail around the Prom might not ever be enough. A cocoon of astonishing beauty, splendid isolation is always at hand despite its fame.
Most of us have either visited, camped, walked, surfed or heard about Wilsons Prom. It’s not necessarily a hidden gem in any adventurer’s journal, and while its popularity has much to do with the famous – and genuinely squeaky – Squeaky Beach, the Prom is a haven that never ceases to amaze, challenge and surprise. Even on an unpredictable spring weekend.
I had been planning to do a hike for a couple weeks and wanted something that was long enough for a challenge but short enough do to in between the work weeks. With the spring weather once again changing at a moment’s notice, I ditched plans for the alps and headed with my dad to an opposite but equally enticing environment, the coast. Looking for a hike more on the side of challenging, we planned for a three-day, two-night adventure around the Prom. It wouldn’t be the classic Southern Circuit given some trail closures but a big loop beginning and ending at Tidal River.
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Descending down to the haven of Refuge Cove, a welcome sight after a long day.
Looking back towards Little Oberon beach, perfectly framed by the dramatic granite boulder coastline
Walking towards the southern tip, we left Tidal River and had immediate sweeping views of the rocky outcrops and rolling swell that the Prom is known for. The granite boulders break through the scruffy vegetation and immediately remind you of the islands surrounding Tasmania and Bass Strait, originally connected to this land thousands of years ago. After our first push around the coast to Oberon Bay, including a few creek crossings, we arrived at Oberon Bay Campground for morning tea before heading inland on a windy and sandy four-wheel-drive track to Telegraph Junction. The four-wheel-drive track isn’t exactly the highlight of the walk, but arriving at a sheltered, temperate rainforest camp certainly was. We dropped our heavy packs and headed to the most southern point of Australia’s mainland, a windy and beautiful path with plenty of lichen on granite ledges, opening up to a sweeping view of the roaring and wild ocean. With 4000 kilometres to Cape York, the most northern tip of the mainland, there was something particularly special about having to earn this view on this point on the map of our expansive country.
After a rainy night in the rainforest, we headed toward the coast to the iconic lighthouse, a guiding beacon for the Prom. The lightstation also boasts some bunk bed-style accommodation, defined by other hikers as a ‘chalet vibe’, and is a breathtaking spot to break up a trip. It was hard not to constantly stop on the granite lookouts to take photos of the views perfectly framed by the flowering wattle. We hugged the coast for the day looking down to rocky coves and passing through vast gum forests.
With an undulating ribbon of track beautifully groomed by years of walkers, we pushed through the morning expecting a big day of walking, stopping to take in the fern gulleys and for a quick homemade banana bread snack.
The rugged beaches along the Prom’s west coast are an enticing start to the circuit.
Weaving on sandy paths through twisted natives we caught glimpses of Squeaky Beach below.
By lunchtime we arrived at Waterloo Bay, a heavenly sight of piercing blue water and glaringly bright white sand. With a long descent, it was a welcome surprise to see whales breaching from the headland, reminding you just how sacred this area is, not just for wildlife. It was tempting to stay and enjoy the tranquility of the bay, walking along with other hikers from all directions, but we kept walking to have a quick lunch among the wombats at Little Waterloo Bay Campground. While many stay and call it a day here, we decided to push on an extra two hours to Refuge Cove. This was not only the most beautiful section of the hike with the wild azure ocean as a backdrop to the vast gum forests, it took us over the headland to a beachfront campground with absolutely no one around. Refuge indeed.
Huge burnt orange granite boulders could be seen on either side as well as extensive native plants, a vast wetland of tea trees and banksias.
Leaving camp early, we headed back to Waterloo Bay, which was just as mesmerising as the day before. After a quick morning tea and a chat to other hikers, we headed inland, on a mix of boardwalk and sandy track leading up the saddle to the heart
of the Prom. After typically changeable spring weather, it was a welcome surprise to have perfect sunshine as we pushed through the four-wheel-drive track at Telegraph Junction and arrived back at Oberon Bay Campground for lunch. With the final stretch ahead of us, we felt the long hours of the last couple days and were looking forward to a hiker’s treat at the Tidal River General Store. From rainforest to wetland, rocky outcrops to small, sheltered coves, this walk truly fulfilled us, providing incredible views, diverse flora and fauna and enough distance to challenge us on a spring weekend. I’ve always found hiking, particularly a multi- day one, can put so many things in our lives into perspective. When you dial it down to carrying everything you need on your back, there is a sense of simplicity which then allows for a greater connection, not just with other hikers, but with surrounding nature. Suddenly, a view is earned, a meal tastes a thousand times better, a break is a special treat. Walking is a meditation where the rhythm puts you back in touch with these forms of connections. that, when struggling with aspects of my life, I feel I can do because I know that it’s equally hard but enormously rewarding.
Some key Prom tips:
Closures – Check with Parks Victoria for track closures.
Tide times – It helps to leave Tidal River on an outgoing or low tide to make the creek crossings on Oberon Bay more manageable. Water – Check with Parks Victoria about the availability of water and take some water filtration just in case.
