No less epic in scale than its more famous coastal cousins, this quiet corner of Victoria has fine food, convenience and splendid isolation little more than an hour from Melbourne.
Just when you think you may have seen a majority of Victoria’s most spectacular beaches, you head out from Melbourne for a pleasant walk along the Bass Coast east of Phillip Island with a pretty standard set of expectations. And then very quickly you are awestruck by the dramatic seven-kilometre stretch from Kilcunda to Punchbowl beach.
The enticing aspect of the George Bass Coastal Walk is that it is just over a 100-kilometre drive from Melbourne and easily done as a day trip or, better still, an overnight stay to enable exploration of the region renowned for its range of produce and attractions.
We decided to start at Kilcunda and headed west on a mild spring day with the morning sun at our backs. Initially the walk is along the boobialla-and banksia-lined cliff top path with cows lazily grazing in paddocks to the north. As the path meanders and dips into gullies, the distance to the main highway increases until you are accompanied by just the ocean waves and birdsong.
Depending on the season you may spot migrating humpback, southern right or killer whales. Above us, kestrels hovered and, being springtime, there was an edginess in the air as aggressive magpies and a territorial plover swooped in. Wildflowers lined our path and the keen-eyed will note the indigenous grasses.
From the 1865-metre summit, the view to the north east is across Cobungra Gap and to Falls Creek and, on a clear day, the NSW Main Range
Halfway into the walk, Sandy Waterhole Beach can be seen to the west. With a gentle northerly wind blowing and low swell running we headed down the ridge to continue along the sand and around the headland. Out on the shelf are several deep rockpools so, despite the chilly water, a dip was in order. Leaving the beach, we headed back to the main track which hugs the top of a particularly precipitous cliff.
A small stream cascades from a gully across exposed mudstone to the treacherous shoreline way below. A short distance on is a lookout revealing a deserted Halfmoon Bay, beckoning us down for lunch.
Picnicking under a sheoak, we spot a lone fisherman actively casting off the reef to add to his haul of snapper. The last section of the track reveals the striking salmon-
pink three-level home, Miramare. Designed by architect Ermin Smrekar and set on eight acres, the residence has commanding views west to Philip Island and Cape Woolamai, while way to the east is Cape Patterson.
Just beyond Miramare is the beach at Punchbowl Rocks which intrepid rock shers access via a rough goat track. These fortune seekers may catch a feast, or their last wave. Several have gone missing from the area in recent years.
The George Bass Coastal Walk is clearly marked as two hours one way yet has taken us a leisurely ve hours as we immersed ourselves in this enticing landscape. The trek back would
be just as rewarding, instead we stuck the thumb out and hitched back to Kilcunda to explore more of the fruits of West Gippsland before sundown.
